You will see San Gimingnano, way before you get there, high on the hill,with its 15 towers looking like a sort of medieval New York. It is the mostperfect medieval walled town, unscathed by any hint of modernity. It is closedto traffic and you will see why as you wander through the narrow streets. Thereare two beautiful main squares and the church is the most frescoed in Tuscany,with a fantastic ‘seven deadly sins’ on one wall and the Old and New Testamentsillustrated on each of the main walls along the length. The Town Hall has morefine frescoes and you can ascend the tower for some stunning views over thesurrounding Tuscan countryside. Fans of the more gruesome side of history canvisit the Museum of Torture. From here, head to Monteriggioni, a small fortresstown, built by the Sienese to halt any attack from rival neighbour, the city ofFlorence. Again, it is perfectly preserved, with all its walls and gates and acentral square.