Straddlingthe border between Lazio and Umbria lies an almost lunar landscape and at theheart of it is Civita di Bagnoregio, otherwise known as ‘la citta che muore’,the dying city, due to the crumbling of the rocks beneath it. People startedleaving for this reason, as early as the 16th century and anearthquake in the 18th century accelerated the exodus. Recently, afew adventurous souls have been renovating some of the houses, though it isonly accessible via a half mile walk over a pedestrian bridge. A reward formaking the crossing is a very rare Etruscan gate into the city walls. Fromhere, continue to the stunning hill top town of Orvieto. Visible from manymiles around, being set on a spectacular volcanic tufa rock, it is easy to seewhy this became an Etruscan settlement and its strategic point between Rome andFlorence ensured that it has been continuously inhabited ever since. The jewelin the crown here is the cathedral, Orvieto being a second home to no fewerthan 32 popes in the 13th and 14th centuries. It is oneof the finest cathedrals in Italy with the most amazing façade and within, asuperb newly restored fresco cycle by Signorelli. The town itself is a delightto explore too, with a tangle of picturesque medieval streets.
