Travelling south fromSwitzerland, generations of visitors have had the feeling that they havereached a Mediterranean country when they arrive at the shores of LakeMaggiore, with its lush vegetation and mild climate. Although very much on thetourist map, when you reach the wooded Cannobina Valley, you are a world away,with little visited picturesque hamlets and stunning views. The town of Stresa,being at the end of the Simplon tunnel is rather better known but isnevertheless a delightful town with elegant hotels lining its lakesidepromenade and bringing reminders of grand 19th century tourists. Inthe centre of the lake are the Borromeo Islands, the most noteworthy being theIsola Bella with its amazing totally-over-the-top villa and gardens, built byCount Carlo III Borromeo, for his wife Isabella in the 17th century.